PFAS in Cosmetics: The Science on Forever Chemicals in Makeup

[!answer] Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) are used in some cosmetics, especially long-wear and waterproof formulas, for their durability and smoothing properties. These persistent “forever chemicals” are under scrutiny for potential health risks, but research into the specific dangers of cosmetic exposure is still developing, and their presence is often not disclosed on ingredient lists.

That slick, budge-proof lipstick or truly waterproof mascara often owes its remarkable performance to a class of chemicals that many are only just beginning to understand. These ingredients, known as PFAS, deliver the near-magical results we’ve come to expect from long-wear cosmetics, but their persistence in the environment—and potentially in our bodies—warrants a closer look at the science.

What exactly are PFAS?

PFAS is an acronym for per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, a large family of several thousand synthetic chemicals. They are sometimes called “forever chemicals” because their defining feature is a chain of carbon-fluorine bonds, one of the strongest chemical bonds in organic chemistry. This bond makes them incredibly stable and resistant to breaking down, meaning they can persist and accumulate in the environment and in living organisms, including humans.

This same durability makes them highly effective for a vast range of industrial and consumer applications. You can find PFAS in non-stick cookware (Teflon is a well-known example), stain-resistant fabrics, firefighting foam, and food packaging. Their unique ability to repel both oil and water (a state known as oleophobicity and hydrophobicity) is what makes them so useful, and it’s precisely this property that has secured their role in certain types of cosmetics.

Why are PFAS used in waterproof cosmetics?

PFAS are used in cosmetics primarily for their film-forming, stabilizing, and water-resisting capabilities. In products like waterproof mascara, long-wear foundation, and liquid lipstick, they help create a smooth, pliable film that adheres to the skin and resists smudging or breaking down when exposed to moisture or natural skin oils. This is what provides that "bulletproof" staying power.

According to a 2025 study on PFAS analysis in mascara, these chemicals are used for their emulsification and surfactant properties, helping to keep complex cosmetic formulations stable and apply evenly [1]. Common products where PFAS have been detected include foundation, powders, and nail polish [1]. The end result for the consumer is a product that spreads effortlessly, feels silky, and, most importantly, lasts all day. For a deeper dive into their function, our overview on PFAS in waterproof makeup explains these mechanisms.

However, this performance comes with a trade-off. The very stability that makes PFAS effective is what drives the health and environmental concerns surrounding them. When you wash these products off your face, the PFAS ingredients enter the water system and, due to their inability to degrade, can accumulate in the environment indefinitely.

[!quote] The complexity of cosmetic formulations, with various additives, makes the analysis of these samples extremely challenging. — [1]

What are the health concerns associated with PFAS?

The bulk of health research on PFAS has focused on exposure through contaminated drinking water and food, not cosmetics. This research has linked high levels of exposure to certain legacy PFAS (like PFOA and PFOS) to a range of health problems, including liver damage, thyroid disease, elevated cholesterol, decreased fertility, and certain types of cancer. Many PFAS are also considered potential endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs), meaning they may interfere with the body’s hormonal systems.

When it comes to cosmetics, the primary question is one of dermal absorption: how much of these chemicals can pass through the skin and enter the bloodstream? The science on this is far from settled. The amount absorbed depends on the specific PFAS chemical, its concentration, the product’s formulation, and the condition of the skin it’s applied to. Intact skin is a fairly robust barrier, but PFAS applied to the lips or near the eyes (in the case of mascara and eyeliner) may have a more direct route for ingestion or absorption.

Currently, there is no scientific consensus on the precise human health risk posed by the low-level, direct application of PFAS-containing cosmetics. The research is ongoing, but the lack of long-term data specific to cosmetic use means we operate in a zone of scientific uncertainty. Regulators and scientists agree that, given their persistence, any non-essential use of PFAS should be critically evaluated.

How can I tell if my makeup contains PFAS?

This is a significant challenge for consumers. Unlike intentionally added ingredients, PFAS can sometimes be present in a product as a contaminant or a byproduct of the manufacturing process for another ingredient. In these cases, it would not appear on the label at all.

When PFAS are intentionally added, they may be listed under names that are not immediately obvious. The best way to screen for them is to read the full INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) list. Look for words that contain "fluoro," or for ingredients like Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), or any chemical name containing "perfluoro" or "polyfluoro."

Unfortunately, label-reading alone is not a foolproof method. The 2025 study on PFAS detection in mascara highlights that the analytical chemistry required to even find these substances in makeup is incredibly complex and still an area of active research [1]. This analytical difficulty underscores why brands themselves may not always be aware of trace contamination.

What is being done about PFAS in cosmetics?

Regulatory action is beginning to catch up to scientific concern. Several states in the U.S., including California, Colorado, and Minnesota, have passed laws that will ban the intentional addition of PFAS to cosmetic and personal care products, with most of these bans taking effect in 2025 or shortly thereafter. At the federal level, the FDA has begun conducting its own testing and monitoring of cosmetics for PFAS, though it has not yet declared them unsafe for use in cosmetics, citing the need for more research.

Many brands, responding to consumer demand for transparency and caution, are also taking voluntary action. A growing number of cosmetic companies have committed to reformulating their products to be "PFAS-free." This proactive stance is often the clearest signal a consumer has, as these brands will typically advertise this commitment explicitly. Without such a guarantee, it can be difficult to know for certain if a product is free of these chemicals.

How can I avoid PFAS in my cosmetics?

For individuals who prefer to exercise caution and avoid PFAS, there are several practical steps you can take:

1. Seek Out "PFAS-Free" Brands: The most reliable method is to buy from companies that have publicly and explicitly committed to excluding PFAS from their entire product line. These brands have done the work of auditing their supply chains and reformulating where necessary.

2. Read the Ingredient List: While not a perfect solution, scanning the INCI list for ingredients with "fluoro" in their name can help you avoid products where PFAS have been intentionally added. Key culprits include PTFE, perfluorononyl dimethicone, perfluorodecalin, and C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate.

3. Re-evaluate the Need for "Waterproof": Consider whether every-day makeup needs to be truly waterproof or long-wearing. These performance features are most likely to be achieved using PFAS or similar water-resistant film-formers. Opting for standard formulations for daily use and reserving long-wear products for special occasions can significantly reduce your potential exposure.

4. Be Skeptical of Vague Claims: Terms like "clean," "natural," or "non-toxic" are not regulated and do not mean a product is PFAS-free. Look for specific statements about PFAS, not just general marketing buzzwords.

The takeaway

PFAS are present in some long-wear and waterproof cosmetics because of their powerful film-forming and water-resisting properties. While the specific health risks from this type of exposure are still under investigation, their environmental persistence alone is a reason for caution. The most effective way for consumers to avoid them is to support brands that explicitly formulate without PFAS and to question whether high-performance, long-wear products are necessary for daily use.